Mt. Baker / Kulshan
Mt. Baker is one of the the most sought after summits in the Cascades. A beautiful walk in through wild flowers and old growth, a camp looking out over glaciers and Puget Sound, and a relatively beginner friendly route, Baker has it all.
Easton Glacier
This is the classic and most mellow route up the mountain. A great first mountaineering adventure for folks willing to challenge themselves. Climbing to 10, 700ft is no joke. But the views will reward you through the whole journey. We guide the Easton as 3 day trips and teach 4-day courses. We also, for the super fit, guide 1 day ski mountaineering pushes (June) or jogging pushes (August).
North Ridge
The North Ridge of Kulshan is one of the fifty classic climbs in North America. It takes a beautiful line up the North Ridge with plenty of steep snow, 2-3 pitches of ice climbing and a smooth descent down the Coleman-Demming Route. If you’ve climbed a bite of ice and are comfortable climbing steep snow, this could be a great route for you.
Shuksan
Fischer Chimneys
This climb has a bit of everything — lot’s of 4th class scrambling, some beginner -friendly glacial ice climbing, lots of glacier travel, many pitches of 5.4 rock climbing up an aesthetic ridge to a true summit, and tons of rappels. Fisher Chimneys is great for folks who have a few climbs under their belt and are looking for a challenge. It’s an incredible venue for learning too. If you’ve climbed a few volcanoes, and led a bit of rock, this could be an incredible spot to learn the ways of the alpine with trained guides coaching you the whole way.
Dragontail — Enchantments
Triple Couloirs
If you’ve read through some of these descriptions you may be starting to roll your eyes of how many times the word classic is used. Well, rest assured that Dragontail is classic — its about as perfect a intermediate alpine climb as one could hope to find — fun heroic ice climbing, steep snow, a breathtaking setting looking out over Colchuck Lake, and just enough alpine trickery to keep it interesting.
Chair Peak
Alpine mountaineering in the North Cascades often comes with long grueling approaches with heavy packs — not so with Chair Peak. 1 hr drive from Seattle and 1.5 hrs of approach can leave you standing at the base of this great winter / spring climb. 4 pitches of moderate snow, rock and ice climbing brings you to this iconic Cascades summit.
Cascades Honorable Mentions
There’s a lifetime of mountaineering to do just in Washington alone — literally. Here’s a few to consider.
Glacier Peak / Dakobed: Like climbing Baker but more remote & wild. 4 days.
Sloan Peak: A great low commitment intro to Cascades Mountaineering. 2-3 days.
Eldorado East Ridge: This is a popular, technically easy climb with a classic finish on an exposed summit ridge. The summit view and knife-edge top are exquisite. 3-4 days.
Sahale: A steep glacial approach through the iconic Boston Basin leads to an exposed 4th class scramble to the summit! 1-3 days.